WL Rating
I put off reading this book for quite some time. Frankly, I had an aversion to the title (seems to be a recurring theme for me for some reason). I think I had a fear that I was getting sucked into some sort of “Jesus will improve your surfing” cult, which is beyond stupid. In the end, the book is exactly what it says it is: “Surfing, science and the origins of belief.” Now, that sounds fairly dry, but luckily for the reader, Steven Kotler is an excellent, intelligent writer with a gift for pace, wit and loads of sarcasm. Nearing the end of his mental and physical strength due to a fight with Lyme Disease, Kotler manages to paddle out into the surf and begin the healing. By itself, that storyline could have been god-awful, but the narrative picks up on a myth that Kotler heard after getting slammed and dragged across a reef in Mexico. The tale, about a magical Conductor who can control the surf with human bones used as batons, is one that he had heard before in Indonesia (where coincidentally he was also slammed and dragged across a reef). For the rest of the book, Kotler goes on a global surf trek to uncover the history behind the myth, along the way delving into the psychology, neuroscience, and mystery behind faith. In the end, Kotler does a solid job explaining why surfers feel an almost religious fervor about their sport, or what he aptly refers to as a spiritual “funkytown.” Fans of Jamal Yogis’ Saltwater Buddha will find a kindred spirit in Kotler, and an entertaining book that’s definitely worth a read. (January 2010)
