Review

WL Rating

I’m a big fan of Gerry Lopez and can vividly remember wanting to be just like him (and Rory Russell) when I was a kid–watching them casually weave through menacing Pipeline barrels.  Well, it turns out that in addition to being a surfing legend, Lopez is also quite a thoughtful and articulate writer. The book is part autobiography and part diary, with Lopez artfully recounting memories and anecdotes from his childhood. There are great essays on his sessions at Pakala, his three-wave hold-down in summer surf, learning to surf the Ala Moana bowl and of course his sessions at Pipe. There are also funny stories sprinkled throughout the book, my favorite being the story of Gerry getting misdirected by Rory Russell at Cannons and winding up with a mile-long swim (and Rory running scared).  This book exceeded my expectations.  Lopez is like Noll in that he can take a rich personal history and give it meaning 20-30 years later. Definitely a book worth owning and, in my non-objective opinion, a WL Essential.  (April 2009)

Surf Is Where You Find It  - Gerry Lopez

Details

Category: Non-Fiction

Reading Style: Easy

Pages: 246

Pub Date: 2008

Tags: Surfing, Bio