Legendary big wave surfer Greg Noll’s autobiography. Outrageous, funny and always candid, Noll’s story captures a critical time in surfing’s development.
Hemingway’s masterpiece story about an aging Cuban fisherman’s final battle with an epic marlin. Short, concise, brilliant.
The true story of one man’s ill-planned, yet successful, cross-ocean voyages aboard a self-made raft. Both hilarious and awe inspiring.
From the island chain’s formation to the Polynesian discoverers to the socially retarded missionaries trying to civilize the heathen, this is the classic tale of historical fiction that all surfers visiting Hawaii should read.
My view on essential water books continues to evolve as I uncover or get introduced to new books. I selected the books below because of what I perceive to be their importance to water culture. It’s subjective by nature. Think something is missing? Let me know.
The Waterman’s Library Essentials
An excellent, comprehensive history of the surfboard. From ancient Hawaiian designs to today’s fiberglass ultralights, The Surfboard covers it.
A great book that approaches the history of surfboard design through the lens of legendary surfer/shaper Greg Noll.
The definitive treatise on all things related to birth and lives of waves and beaches. at times scientific, but more often than not an excellent education for anyone involved with the ocean.
The classic story of Thor Heyerdahl’s 4,000+ mile journey across the Pacific Ocean to prove that Polynesia was peopled by an ancient Peruvian race.
The book is part autobiography and part diary, with Lopez artfully recounting memories and anecdotes from his childhood.
Fred Hemmings talking story, reminiscing about his life in Hawaii during the golden age of surfing.
An excellent piece of historical fiction that skillfully tells the story of the mutinous battle between Commodore William Bligh and Master’s Mate Fletcher Christian.
A fast-paced historical narrative of the sinking of the U.S.S. Indianapolis, and the tragic plight of the 900+ sailors left to survive floating in shark-infested waters.
From the author of Eddie Would Go comes an excellent new book about the soul of Hawaiian surfing: Makaha.
An elegantly simple description of how tides actually work.
Book two of the Bounty trilogy picks up the story after Fletcher Christian’s mutiny, and describes Captain Bligh’s 3,600 mile journey to Tiimor.
Book three of the Bounty trilogy describes the mutineers’ ill-fated attempt to create paradise on a lonely Pacific island.
An excellent, well researched, and totally comprehensive guide to all things surfing-related.
The classic book about a pissed off Great White shark who terrorizes an Eastern vacation town.
A classic photo history from one of the 1960’s and 1970’s most influential surf photographers.
An excellent collection of true big wave surfing stories from the North Shore.
An excellent selection of the 50 best places to surf before you die.
Not to be confused with the other book by the same name, this is Rabbit’s excellent autobiography.
Fantastic pictures, excellent essays, and great editing combine to provide a clear view of one of big wave surfing’s scariest breaks.
A fantastic book about growing up surfing in Sheboygan Wisconsin.
The autobiography from legendary waterman Mike Doyle. A great read.
Instant classic. Mandatory reading. Perfect gift. The word on surfing history.
An excellent book about one of the world’s most dynamic, high performance surfing spots.
An excellent history of both Maverick’s the break, and big wave surfing
A beautiful book about the life and mysterious disappearance of legendary surf photographer, Ron Stoner
The rare biography of early surfing icon, Phil Edwards. If you’ve got $450, this is the book for you.
An amazing WWII story about a crashed airman who drifts into Japanese territory.
The best book I’ve read on maintaining your health while surfing.
Surfing legend Mickey Muñoz talks story about a long life spent playing in the water.
The story of the Jack O’Neill, the father of the modern day wetsuit.
One of the best surf biographies I’ve read. A deep portrayal of surfing’s true renaissance man.
The word on today’s pursuit of big wave surfing by big wave surfer Rusty Long.
A beautifully written, insightful biography that should be on every surfers reading list.