Review

WL Rating

For those of us who grew up in Southern California in the 70’s, Windansea was known for fantastic waves that were jealously guarded by some of the more feral locals on the coast. One of the most notorious was Chris O’Rourke, a transplanted surfing phenom who was full of talent, but equally full of unbridled rage that regularly found a violent outlet anytime a non-local dared to paddle out at Windansea. Kirk Aeder’s new book Child of the Storm is O’Rourke’s story, an honest biography that digs deep into O’Rourke’s personal demons and ultimate redemption as he’s faced with his own mortality. Aeder, a close friend of O’Rourke, doesn’t pull any punches as he describes his friend’s numerous shortcomings. Similarly, he’s also honest about O’Rourke’s transformation into a more modest, peaceful adult as cancer ravages his young body and forces him to come to terms with his past behavior. Cynics (and perhaps avid haters of localism in any form) will struggle to believe that O’Rourke changed for any reason other than a fear of dying and the selfish need to atone before meeting his maker. More optimistic readers will see a young man who was inadvertently damaged by a horrible home life, but managed to begin turning his life around when illness accelerated what might have been a normal path to maturity. While there is probably truth in both positions, what is clear is that O’Rourke was one of the most dynamic surfers of the era who died too young and never fulfilled his full potential. It’s a sad story, but one that will appeal to avid surf biography fans or readers with a soft spot for stories of hope and redemption. (July 2012)

Child of the Storm - Kirk Lee Aeder

Details

Category: Non-Fiction

Reading Style: Medium

Pages: 320

Pub Date: 2012

Tags: Bio, Surfing